Tucked into the tiny town of Graton just outside Sebastopol, Underwood Bar & Bistro has been a local favorite for years, pairing a well-made cocktail list with a French and Cal-Mediterranean-influenced menu — think mussels, steak frites, and a solid wine list, in a warm, unpretentious room. It’s a good pick for a relaxed dinner or a drink at the bar if you want something a little more grown-up than a brewery taproom. Graton itself is worth the short detour, a one-block town with an outsized amount of charm. Underwood is closed Mondays, so plan around that if you’re set on going. Go on a weeknight for a quieter, more relaxed version of the place, or expect a livelier crowd on weekends.
