Handline is the kind of place you end up recommending to everyone who asks where to eat in Sebastopol. Set just south of town on Gravenstein Highway, this counter-service seafood spot pulls from the Sonoma Coast and does simple things extremely well — think Baja-style fish tacos, a smoked fish dip worth the trip alone, and a rotating list of ceviches that changes with what’s fresh. The vibe is unfussy: order at the counter, grab a stool at the bar under the hand-painted marlin mural, and let the kids (or the dog, on the patio) run a little wild while you wait. It’s equally good for a quick lunch between wine country stops or a lingering dinner with a cold local beer. Go on a weekday around 5pm if you want to skip the weekend rush, or lean into the wait on a Saturday — the patio fills up fast and it’s part of the fun. Portions are generous enough to share. If you only have one meal to spend in Sebastopol proper, we’d steer you here first.